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Dragon's skin is the Revolutionary Skin for Ceramic Blanket. It is engineered specifically to provide a thin hard surfacing skin coat kaowool (refractory ceramic wool). It ensures ceramic wool fibers are not broken down and aerosolized risking asbestos like conditions. Sealing ceramic wool from open air fire box exposure is always a good idea. Especially if you don't know the rating of the wool.
Dragons skin can be applied as fine as 1/16" thick and is commonly used at 1/8" (though it can be applied up to 1/4" thick) because it is so strong. It also adds a element of radiant reflectivity, making burner more efficient, and while not totally impervious to flux, it provides some protection. Test results will be posted soon.
Unlike classic castables that only bond to existing surfaces mechanically, Dragon Skin adds a chemical bonding capacity, making a think coat feasible.
First liberally spray your wool with rigidizer, and then fire your burner until the dye in the rigidizer becomes translucent and allow it to cool.
The tried and true method of poking holds in rigidized wool with a pencil, helps all coatings gain purchase to the wool increasing its durability. Sticking a few of the stainless steel needles into the wool adds further adhesion / purchase & durability. The remainder of the needles are added when mixing the Dragon Skin (next).
(Alternatives: Traditional products like Kast-O-Lite Li 30 Li-G+ & KAST-O-LITE 30 Li work great but they have to be applied at least 3/8" thick. While this adds some insulation value, it also decreases the diameter of your forge by 3/4" when applied to two opposing walls, and it does not provide any real flux protection. PS- KOL 30 is very good and structurally solid).icks and crumble when used as a coating, like white glue would
Dragon Skin comes with a wet and a dry mix, and some fine SS needles. The water is first mixed with the wet mix, and then combined with the dry mix and then a few fine stainless needles.
Unlike traditional castable coatings blended to a sour cream consistency, Dragon Skin is mixed to a more fluid, almost self levelling, blend and it is to be applied with the aid of gravity and rolling the forge or foundry so that the coating is applied on the base surface, (or lower 1/3 of a curve), and allowed to dry for at least 20 minutes before the unit is rotated to coat another surface. Once coated lightly you can easily add & touch & add durability where needed.
Application is quick and straight forward. It is best applied with the combination of a large spoon, a small trowel and a brush. The added liquidity bites firmly into the surface fibers of the Kaowool for a superior bond.
The higher moisture benefits from waiting a little longer, before applying heat to minimize checking (micro cracks). The optimal way to promote hardening without checking is to lightly cover the dragon skin with a dampened burlap or tea towel that slows the evaporation until the castable has acquired some strength.
Intermittently, warming the forge over two hours to further evaporate moisture without creating steam is advised before ramping up to service temperatures, which should be done within a month to secure full strength.
We are conducting tests will be published soon. Where as we'd always advise coating traditional castables like Kast-O-Lite 30 Li+ with the reflective ceramic coating ITC-100 HT. Early results indicate the ceramic reflective element included in Dragon's Skin may itself be adequate. Though a final coal of ITC-100 is considered the gold standard, we will have the exact degree of improved efficiency determined soon, and it may be that a full coating of ITC-100 isn't required. Stay tuned.
Coverage: A chart with square footage of coverage will be coming soon. Coverage is half as much with a 1/8" vs 1/16" coating, and half again if a full 1/4" thick. A small forge can be thin coated with a small kit.
